While other mechanisms surprise and delight, the chronograph owns sex appeal. As standard-issue for racecar drivers, fighter pilots, astronauts, and athletes, it's no surprise that chronograph watches for men capture buyers' imaginations like no other models.
At the 2014 Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Italian marque Panerai set media eyes alight with not one but two stunning new chronograph watches for men. In this, the first installment of a two-part Panerai SIHH retrospective, 300watches examines the new Radiomir 1940.
Panerai describes the Radiomir 1940 as an instant collectible for aficionados of the brand. Limited production means 100 rose gold (PAM00519), 100 white gold (PAM00520), and 50 platinum units (PAM00518) will be produced in 2014, and there will be no 2015 models. The “1940” design fuses the Radiomir's cushion-style case with the period-correct dual-pusher chronograph style that superseded mono-pusher designs in the late 1930s.
The three case materials of the “1940” collection have been differentiated by unique dial designs, color palettes, numerals, and special textures. The result is that each of the editions features a strikingly unique appearance. Moreover, the range of colors and tones enables a buyer to select his “1940” to suit occasions as varied as business and barbeque.
Inside, a Swiss movement from legendary chronograph specialist and Richemont Group stable mate Minerva provides a timing system with three elements: seconds, minutes, and hours. The movement is visible through a sapphire case back, and what a view it is! Straight-grained levers, beveled bridges adorned with Cotes-de-Geneve, and polished screw heads with polished sinks reveal a machine built by the hands of masters.
Although based in its ancestral Florentine home, Panerai has maintained partnerships with the best Swiss movement manufacturers, including Minerva, Rolex, and Angelus. The Minerva movement in the “1940” is not only assembled but finished in the finest tradition of the Bernese Swiss.
The technical specifications are no less impressive: A 2.5hz escapement drives an enormous balance wheel regulated by a screwed-down swan's neck mechanism. The traditional column wheel, which remains the gold standard for crisp chronograph pusher action, is present and polished.
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